36 Hours in Osaka, Japan

To see all the destinations listed in this guide and other ceramic sites worldwide, check out Ceramic World Destinations (CWD), MoCA/NY's interactive map listing over 4,000 destinations!

While Osaka may be renowned as 'Japan's Kitchen,' the city also holds great cultural significance and boasts a rich tradition in the arts. Its proximity to Kyoto, the ancient capital, and being the birthplace of Sado (the tea ceremony) further contribute to Osaka's artistic heritage.

Ceramics are collected and donated for public viewing, highlighting the role of passionate ceramic enthusiasts in preserving and sharing cultural treasures. These collectors, described as lovers of ceramics, have played a crucial role in assembling a diverse and extensive collection of ceramics for visitors to enjoy. Their dedication has allowed for the preservation and exhibition of ceramics, and the connection between the arts and ceramics adds depth to the cultural experience for visitors exploring Osaka's artistic landscape.

WHERE TO STAY

It's highly suggested to stay near Osaka/Umeda Station.

High-end accommodations: Conrad Osaka, InterContinental Osaka, The Ritz-Carlton, Hotel Hankyu International, and the Hilton Osaka. Mid-range options: Mitsui Garden Hotel Osaka Premier, ANA Crown Plaza Osaka, and Imperial Hotel Osaka. Hostels: Nine Hours Shin-Osaka Station, J-garden Shin-Osaka Capsule, Linda Hostel 106, Guesthouse U-En, Hotel the Rock.

TRANSPORTATION

Public transportation, train and bus, is the easiest and most affordable option for traveling around the city. Consider purchasing a prepaid Icoca card (a Suica or Pasmo card from Tokyo will also work). SUBWAY MAP

RESTAURANTS

To explore restaurant options, check out this comprehensive list published by Eater.

DAY 1

MUSEUMS, TEA CAFE & GALLERIES

10:00 AM - The Museum of Oriental Ceramics

Grab a coffee or breakfast at a nearby cafe and head to the Museum of Oriental Ceramics, where visitors can explore an extensive collection that goes beyond Japan. Noteworthy highlights of the collection include items from Korea and China from various periods, such as the Han, Ming, and Qing Dynasties. Additionally, the museum boasts a significant assortment of snuff bottles. Korean celadon wares are divided into three distinct parts, showcasing the diversity and depth of the collection.

While the museum is known for its traditional wares, it keeps pace with contemporary developments in the ceramic arts. Visitors may be pleasantly surprised to find special exhibitions featuring works by important modern ceramics artists, providing a dynamic and evolving perspective into the world of clay. This combination of traditional and modern elements make the museum a fascinating destination for enthusiasts and art lovers alike.

11:30 AM - Nakanoshima Kosetsu Museum of Art

The Nakanoshima Kosetsu Museum of Art offers a unique experience, featuring a collection of privately collected tea wares from Mr. Ryohei Murayama, the founder of the Asahi Shimbun newspaper. This museum reflects Murayama's passion for art, showcasing not only Japanese tea wares but also works from other countries in East Asia.

Visitors can expect a diverse and comprehensive collection that goes beyond national boundaries. The inclusion of tea wares suggests a focus on the traditional aspects of East Asian culture, particularly to the tea ceremony, which holds significant cultural and artistic value.

Exploring this museum provides an opportunity to appreciate the convergence of art and tea culture, offering insights into the rich artistic traditions of Japan and its neighboring East Asian countries.

^{Photo courtesy: Kate Strachan and private collections catalog}

1:30 PM – Wad Café & Wad + Gallery

Wad Café offers a delightful and immersive experience for its guests. The carefully selected décor creates an ambiance that promotes relaxation and enhances the enjoyment of conversations. The prospect of having to wait for a table adds to the anticipation, encouraging visitors to explore the adjacent gallery space on the 2nd and 3rd floors. The gallery space, accessible from the building behind Wad Café, provides a holistic artistic experience, combining the pleasure of tea with visual arts.

The diverse assortment of tea choices caters to a broad range of preferences. The cafe also accommodates non-natives with an English menu. The mention of experiencing each tea differently implies a focus on the nuanced aspects of tea culture. Furthermore, the opportunity to select a tea bowl from Wad's display adds a personal touch to the tea-drinking experience. They also provide the option to choose sweets enhances the overall tea-drinking experience, making it not just a beverage but a sensory journey. This attention to detail in both ambiance and offerings makes Wad Café a promising destination for those seeking a unique and immersive tea experience.

The presence of contemporary ceramic artists exhibiting at Wad + Gallery indicates a dynamic and evolving space that embraces the latest trends and expressions in the world of ceramics. The emphasis on a well-curated display suggests a thoughtful and intentional approach to presenting the artwork, creating an environment that invites guests to engage with the pieces on a personal level.

^{Photo courtesy: Han-Yun Liang}

3:00 PM – Fujita Museum

The Fujita Museum is a treasure for art enthusiasts. Its status as a privately owned family collection, rooted in Denzaburo Fujita's passion for art, adds a personal dimension to the museum's history. The opportunity for visitors to explore the former family mansion, immersing themselves in the ever-evolving tea-ware collection, speaks to the museum's deep connection to both art and personal heritage.

The dimly lit exhibit room constructs a meticulously designed presentation that isolates each piece of art, encouraging focused attention and suggesting a curated and immersive environment. This setup allows visitors to engage with the tea-ware collection, highlighting the importance of each piece within the broader artistic experience.

Following a day immersed in art appreciation, the museum offers a thoughtful space for relaxation. The various options for guests to take a moment for themselves, be it in the tatami room, on the café's encircling steps, or at a seated table, introduce an additional layer.

7:30 PM – RAURUAJI Gallery & Antique

The RAURAUJI Gallery offers a diverse and interesting blend of contemporary ceramic art and furniture antiques. The combination of these elements suggests an eclectic atmosphere, where traditional and modern aesthetics come together. This mix of mediums provides visitors with the opportunity to explore the intersection of different artistic expressions. Described as a place where one can casually "pop in" to view the current exhibit featuring tea-ware objects and figure sculptures, the gallery conveys a relaxed and accessible environment.

9 PM - Osaka Castle Main Tower (Osaka Castle Museum)

Consider a late night stroll around Osaka Castle, which is lit up with the Sakuya Lumina light display when the sun sets. With its roots tracing back to the Sengoku period, the castle has endured a rich history, witnessing battles, reconstruction, and pivotal events in Japanese history. It houses an ever-changing exhibition of cultural assets related to Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Sengoku period, and Osaka Castle's history.

DAY 2

MORE MUSEUMS & ARTIST STUDIOS

On the second day, seize the opportunity to visit a local artist or continue along the path of exploring private collections housed in museums.

10 AM - ARTIST STUDIO: Yoshiko Naragino

Yoshiko’s work consistently aims to express joy, vitality, and happiness through various creatures, events, and patterns, creating a larger-than-life fantasy that evokes familiar sceneries and stories. The size of the works requires viewers to look up, squat down, or move around, allowing for an immersive three-dimensional experience that emphasizes the weight and presence of the art.

Yoshiko Naragino Website

11 AM - KATE STRACHAN

Kate Strachan is a transdisciplinary artist, who divides her time between Asia and the US. Her clay work integrates various materials such as wax, wood and fiber to form manuscripts, sculpture, installation, and video art. Kate's work is viewed as a collection of both relics and texts conveying and preserving the routine of action, sexuality and silence.

1 PM - Japanese Folk Crafts Museum Osaka

^{Photo courtesy: Kate Strachan}

The Japan Folk Crafts Museum Osaka, originally constructed as an exhibition hall, has undergone transformation and currently functions as the western base for the "Mingei Movement." Founded by Muneyoshi Yanagi, the Mingei Movement underscores the value of appreciating folk crafts and recognizing the beauty inherent in everyday, utilitarian objects.

Special exhibitions are held twice a year in the spring and fall, showcasing domestic and foreign folk art objects. The variety of folk-art objects, including ceramics, dyed and woven textiles, wood and lacquer works, and braided pieces, indicates a comprehensive approach to representing different aspects of traditional crafts.

The inclusion of commemorative lectures for each special exhibition adds an educational element to the museum's programming.

3 PM - Itsuo Art Museum

The Itsuo Art Museum, dedicated to the memory of Kobayashi Ichizo (1873-1957), honors the legacy of Itsuo, a prominent figure renowned for his contributions to culture and art. Established in 1957, the museum boasts an extensive collection of 5,500 works of arts and crafts meticulously gathered by Itsuo throughout his lifetime.

This remarkable collection reflects Itsuo's diverse interests and includes many prized gifts bestowed upon him by business associates. While photography is often restricted within museums, visitors have the opportunity to acquire well-printed catalogs, allowing them to take a piece of the collection home with them.

To explore our extensive listings of galleries, museums, design stores, and other destinations in Japan, go to the CERAMIC WORLD DESTINATION MAP!

CONTRIBUTOR

Kate Strachan is an interdisciplinary studio artist with a background in ceramics and fiber. She divides her time between Osaka and Philadelphia and has a rich artistic journey that includes an apprenticeship in Kanazawa, Japan, and studies at the Tainan National University of the Arts.

Her recent accomplishments include receiving a grant from the Dutch government for the 2024 EKWC residency, winning NCECA's 2023 Emerging Artist Award, securing 3rd place for Blanc de Chine in 2021, and having her work selected for the New Taipei Yingge Ceramics Biennale in 2022.

Kate Strachan's Website

Want to see our next ceramic guide to a city? Taipei, Taiwan and Oxford, England are coming next!

You too can feature ceramic destinations for your city. To share a guide, event, exhibition news, or research, visit our Connect Page for more information!

Subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all things ceramics!

The Mapping of American History: "Points of Origin" at C24 Gallery

C24 Gallery - Chelsea, NYC 
560 W 24th Street 
New York, NY 10011

To the left, right, horizon, and periphery, fifty conical ceramic masks of various proportions are plotted throughout the gallery, echoing an ominous air. The staccato-sharp masks, coated with buzzing blues and adorned with pointillist protrusions, are animated with disconcerting expressions, interlocking and confronting viewers with their cryptic and unwavering gaze. Taking a reticent step closer, the contours of masonite prayer fans and plotter ink drawings featuring symbolic and figurative imagery emerge—anchoring the abstracted hoods with narratives personal to the artist, Tammie Rubin.

Originating from multiple axes to create a nexus of works revolving around the common theme of faith, Points of Origin, C24 Gallery’s latest exhibition, serves as a documentation of Rubin’s extensive historical research, a celebration of her master craftsmanship, and an intimate glimpse into her lineage. Although the ensemble of pieces possess contrasting formal qualities and viewpoints, David Terry, the director of the gallery and curator of the show, explains:

“When you think of the point of origin, and where you come from, that could be from many places. [Rubin’s] work and this body of work come from many different areas of her life, African American culture, American culture, women in her family, and the threads that make up the fabric of the country.

So when she was bringing [the pieces] out, I got really excited because they’re all from the same context, but she's exploring different media. And I love it when artists carry the same theme through but realize and recognize it through different forms, communicating at many levels to many different people.”

Creating a metaphysical altar and paying homage to her family and the Black American experience, the varying vantages harmonize in spiritual unison with their shared explorations of The Great Migration and Reconstruction—subjects Rubin hadn’t considered in her practice until she migrated to Texas in 2015. She elaborates:

“It was specifically about this idea of moving to Austin. You know, I moved here for a job, and that's when I started to think about my parents in a historical context. I'm taking from my family stories and then expanding that into larger research about other Black families that have had this experience and whose stories haven't been told. I’m reflecting on conversations about Black Americans having their history not being represented in our world.”

In fact, according to author Isabel Wilkerson, The Great Migration—a period from roughly 1910 to 1970 when six million African Americans mass relocated from the Jim Crow South to the North—was “the greatest and biggest underreported story in the 20th century.”

^{Always & Forever (forever, ever) No.14 - Photo by Daniel Krieger, courtesy of C24 Gallery}

As the descendant of parents who migrated and met in Chicago (mother from southern Mississippi and father from Memphis, Tennessee), Rubin unveils their neglected history and memorializes her family and Black families alike in an archival collection.

^{Always & Forever (forever, ever), Drift No.2 - Photo by Daniel Krieger, courtesy of C24 Gallery}

^{Always & Forever (forever, ever), No.24 - Photo by Daniel Krieger, courtesy of C24 Gallery}

A clan of three ceramic hoods with pigmented Delphinium and Vivid Blue skin and scars of Radiant Red stand on a floating shelf by the entrance. The central figure, with a leveled head resembling a motherboard, represents a map of Chicago. Similar patterns of cities and migratory paths are also present on other masks in her Always & Forever (forever, ever) series.

On the right of the No.17 tribe, a funnel-shaped form with sgraffito rain strokes, dots, and beaded relief creates a sensational feast for the visual cortex. Although the mask isn’t directly portraying routes, the dynamic movement metaphorically alludes to migration as the pulsating red synchronizes and dances with the blue.

The particularly pointy, slanted hood has a more regal personality. Embellished with an obscured badge, a symbol originating from the Medieval Period, the hood contemplates power, principally within the context of law enforcement. Laced with Medieval and magical influences, the masks may appear solely, or most familiarly, to reference the Ku Klux Klan, but they also attribute to Knight and Shaman helmets, dunce caps, and wizards.

Rubin builds sizable, totemic red stoneware forms as seen in her Unknown Ritual Mask series and practices slip-casting smaller everyday objects—cones, funnels, food containers, and vintage lighting—reconfiguring them into non-functional headdresses. After making a mold, she speedily scratches, carves, punctures, and pipes beading onto the surface as they quickly dry.

“I think of all the mark-making that is repetitious as black bodies moving through space and time, so I’m physically marking that onto the surface of the ceramic forms. […] I’m interested in how to suffuse the form with another point of visual communication through the surface itself.”

Rubin then paints the pigmented porcelains, with sumptuous lines, shapes, and stencils. Some cones resemble Abstract Expressionist and contemporary paintings, others African beadwork, Aboriginal mark-making, and ornamental designs.

The exhibition is filled with a profusion of symbols. The plotter ink drawings portray hagiographical portraits of her grandmother, mother, and aunts all adorned with turnip, mustard, and collard green halos—food staples prominent in Rubin's upbringing. Masonite fans, framing the ceramic cones, are symbolic references to the prayer fans that were predominantly present in black churches and funeral homes to keep the congregation cool. Marked with text, figures, floral, dotted, and migratory patterns, the iconographical fans provide a window into the past and become profound relics that take on resonance and emanate the power of faith.

Rubin’s cerebral and complex perspectives are captured in Points of Origin, a transcendental exhibition visually and conceptually mapping and highlighting one of the most significant and overlooked demographic shifting events that will forever change the structure, history, and future of the United States of America. She emphasizes, “Black history is not separate from American history. These are Americans.” The diverse array of works converges into a singular point of origin, commemorating and celebrating the contributions and stories of Rubin and Black families who’ve built the foundation of the country.

“There is no American culture without black American culture. You can't say, well, they did it. We did it. We did it together.”

- Jacob Lawrence

Visit C24 Gallery at 560 W 24th Street New York, NY 10011, or explore and learn more about the exhibition "Points of Origin" and Tammie Rubin's works online at C24 GALLERY

Ceramic Guide - Amsterdam & the Hague

In this edition of 36 Hours, we give tips to key ceramic destinations in Amsterdam and the Hague. The Netherlands, where both cities reside, is a tiny country (if you travel for two hours you’ll be out of the country) but has beautiful places, museums, and restaurants.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY?

Amsterdam has hundreds of hotels, Airbnb, hostels, and apartments where you can stay. Prices are higher than average in Amsterdam compared to the rest of Europe. However, if you look carefully and book on time, you can find a nice room for a reasonable price.

A well-priced, mid-range hotel is the city's largest hotel: the Amsterdam Rai. It is slightly outside the center, but a tram stop and train station are right outside the door. It is designed by Rem Koolhaas and is decorated with a lot of art and design.

If you prefer to be in the center of the city, the country's most famous youth hostel is an option: Hans Brinker in the perfectly located Kerkstraat; they also have "Grown Up Rooms."

Another recommendation is the only hotel in the nicest street in Amsterdam, Hotel The Bank, in the Haarlemmerstraat. On this street are many small hipster shops, including a few ceramic shops, good lunch cafes, restaurants, and a beautiful original art deco cinema.

If you have a little more to spend, book a room at the Amstel Hotel, the hotel of royalty and pop stars, and the hotel where I cleaned dishes in 1988 to pay for my art history studies. Amsterdam has many phenomenal 5-star hotels, such as the Conservatorium Hotel next to the Stedelijk Museum or the Okura Hotel, with two restaurants with Michelin stars. I got married in Hotel The Grand, a beautiful hotel and the former city hall of Amsterdam.

TRANSPORT

The city has many beautiful neighborhoods and streets. Everything is within walking distance and there is a sophisticated public transport system of trams, buses, and the metro. Almost all hotels are easily accessible by public transport.

TIP: Avoid the taxis, which are notorious in the city, although the services of Uber and Bolt are the exception.

ITINERARY

DAY 1:

MUSEUMS IN AMSTERDAM

9 AM: RIJKSMUSEUM

When you are in Amsterdam, you should visit museums. The RIJKSMUSEUM is a must, in the Gallery of Honor with the many Rembrandts and Vermeers, many 17th-century ceramics are also exhibited, specifically Chinese and Delft Blue. The museum also has Meissen porcelain.

TIP: Highly recommended is the Asian department where you will find more Chinese ceramics and special Korean and Japanese ceramics.

_{Rijksmuseum - 2014, photo courtesy: John Lewis Marshall}

11 AM: STEDELIJK MUSEUM

In the permanent collection of the STEDELIJK MUSEUM, you will find 20th-century ceramics, including beautiful Art Nouveau pieces from the Rozenburg pottery. The collection changes regularly, so it is always a search for ceramics, but they do have it. The collection also includes 21st-century classics, such as those by Hella Jongerius or Babs Haenen.

1 PM: LUNCH

As in every metropolis, Amsterdam has dozens of restaurants that serve all cuisines of the world. Anyone looking for Dutch cuisine will notice that many top restaurants focus on local products and that the preparation method bears traces of the Spanish, Danish, and Peruvian example kitchens. The two restaurants of Joris Bijdendijk are among my favourites, Rijks and Wils, both awarded with a Michelin star. The beetroot millefeuille served in Rijks is worth a reservation.

2:30 PM: SHOPPING or PARKS

Amsterdam has many great specialized shops, such as the Holtkamp Bakery in the Vijzelstraat, the Pompadour Patisserie in the Berenstraat, and the phenomenal Atheneum Bookshop on the Spui. For the design and ceramics enthusiast, there is the FROZEN FOUNTAIN on the Prinsengracht. It is a design paradise that can only be equaled in Rossana Orlandi in Milan. The most current and influential works can be seen and purchased here.

If you prefer sitting or walking around a park, Vondelpark and Westerpark are both incredibly beautiful parks to visit.

4 PM: MUSEUM van LOON or FOAM

Then, to MUSEUM van LOON on the Keizersgracht. This is a beautiful mansion on the canal where you can see how a wealthy family lived in the 17th century. The house also has a beautiful art collection and regularly has contemporary art projects. Exactly across the canal is FOAM, the photography museum. There are always several exhibitions on display here that are often considered controversial.

6 PM: WANT A DRINK?

Have a drink on a terrace, a six-minute walk from FOAM, near the Amstelveld at Brasserie Nel. You’ll walk by beautiful canals and canal boats.

TIP: you can rent a canal boat for a few hours with Boatyor Mokumboot. Make sure to organize in advance.

7 PM: DINNER

An informal bite to eat can be found at Fou Fow Ramen, the best ramen, udon, and tempura in the city, Elandsgracht or Prinsengracht 411. Vegan, and vegetarian options are available.

A nice address is also Tolhuistuin, easily accessible by ferry behind Central Station. For those who want to eat from beautiful crockery: Rijks at the Rijksmuseum is very worthwhile.

^{Amsterdam, Restaurant Rijks, photo courtesy: Jan Kees}

10 PM: FERRY TO NORTH AMSTERDAM

For a late drink: jump on the free ferry from behind Central Station to NDSM, which departs every 15 minutes. It takes fourteen minutes to reach a creative and cultural site in North Amsterdam that is in full development and where fine cafes have established themselves.

TIP: If you frequent Amsterdam and know the collection of the Rijksmuseum by heart, DELFT is a wonderful alternative, about an hour by train from Amsterdam. As a starting point near the station, there is the MUSEUM HET PRINSENHOF renowned for their ceramics presentations. Close by is the gallery TERRA, which exhibits contemporary ceramics and a huge assortment of both Dutch and well-known foreign artists and ceramists. A must for ceramic lovers. In Delft, you can also visit ROYAL DELFT the famous ceramics factory where they have created a ceramics experience for you that ends in a large shop.

DAY 2:

TILBURG and the EKWC

^{Tilburg, Museum De Pont, exhibition 2019, Norbert Prangenberg}

9 AM: TRAIN TO TILBURG

For the second day (I recommend a Thursday for a quieter program), take the train from Central Station to Hertogenbosch and transfer trains to Tilburg. In total that is about 75 minutes, one way € 21.30.

10.30 AM: TEXTILE MUSEUM

There are two top European museums in Tilburg, within walking distance of each other. We will visit MUSEUM De PONT later. First, the TEXTILE MUSEUM specializes in developing textiles and has a fab textile lab where artists experiment with the latest and oldest techniques.

12 PM: LUNCH

A perfect lunchroom is Kras 2. A super relaxed couple serves the best sandwiches in town at lightning speed. You can also have lunch in the cozy center of Osterwijk, the next destination.

1:09 PM: Train from Tilburg station to Oisterwijk

The highlight of the 36 hour journey: a visit to the EUROPEAN CERAMIC WORK CENTER in Oisterwijk. Oisterwijk can be reached by train from Tilburg station in six minutes (the EKWC is within walking distance of the Oisterwijk station).

TIP: There are only guided tours on Thursdays, namely at 1:30 pm. Groups of 8 people can also get a guided tour by appointment. The tour goes through the entire building and the specialized workshops (glaze, mold making, and kilns) are visited. Sixteen artists are at work in the EKWC. Every Wednesday a resident leaves, and every Thursday a new participant arrives, usually from abroad. They stay in the center for 12 weeks. At the entrance, you can see the works by Tony Cragg. The shop and the coffee are superb.

^{Oisterwijk EKWC, 2019}

4 PM: Museum De Pont

After visiting the EKWC, stop by the MUSEUM De PONT in Tilburg, which is open every Thursday evening until 8 pm. Museum De Pont is a private museum for contemporary art that is bursting at the seams with top quality. It is housed in a sublimely renovated factory and is, without doubt, one of the best contemporary art museums in Europe.

You will find here, without exaggeration, the most memorable works of Anish Kapoor, Thomas Schutte, Ai Weiwei, Marlene Dumas, and many others. Important artists who work with ceramics are also represented in the collection, for example, Marien Schouten (his Green Room is astonishing) and Tilburg star Guido Geelen are almost always on display.

7 PM: DINNER

A good meal can be found afterward at several restaurants near Tilburg station: Raw, Restaurant de Houtloods, or Brasserie de Burgerij. For those who have more to spend make reservations at Monarh.

If you continue directly to Amsterdam after Museum De Pont, you can go to Eerste Klas on arrival in Amsterdam, in a beautiful dining room in Central Station (platform 2), or Cafe Kobalt, a 17th-century café opposite the station where you can eat well and are completely among the locals.

DAY 3:

THE HAGUE

For the third day, there are two options: The Hague or Leeuwarden (2 hours and 5 minutes by train).

^{Leeuwarden, Museum Princessehof, Yoon Seok-Hyeon}

Leeuwarden

Leeuwarden is one of the most beautiful cities in the Netherlands and hosts the NATIONAL CERAMICS MUSEUM PRINSESSEHOF. One of the most impressive ceramics museums in Europe, housed in a beautiful building, a former palace, and the birthplace of artist Escher. The shop of this museum has a large collection.

In Leeuwarden, the FRIES MUSEUM is also worth a visit, with both contemporary and classical art. You can have a great lunch in the café of the Fries Museum. In Leeuwarden, you can walk for hours and wander through this 17th-century city with a rich history. The second option is The Hague.

For this guide, we will focus on the Hague:

9 AM: TRAIN to the HAGUE

The Hague is a 51 minutes train ride and the city is where the government of the Netherlands is located, as well as all embassies. The Hague is located by the sea and has its own dynamic seaside resort of Scheveningen. It is a residential city with beautiful parks such as the world-famous Westbroekpark where one of Europe's most beautiful rose gardens is hidden. The Hague has several museums that are worth a visit.

10 AM: KUNSTMUSEUM DEN HAAG

Ceramics enthusiasts will, of course, go to the KUNSTMUSEUM Den HAGG, which can be easily reached from Central Station by tram 17. The Kunstmuseum Den Haag has a rich collection of art and design and is housed in an extraordinarily beautiful brick museum by the architect Hendricus Berlage.

The interior distinguishes itself from other museums by the brilliant map that takes you from the buzz of the city, through nature, into culture. The rooms have daylight and you stumble across Mondrian, Rietveld, and Van Doesburgh. The museum always shows international icons such as Kandinsky, Bacon, or Nauman. Large solo exhibitions by ceramic artists are regularly presented here and there is a very nice presentation of Delft Blue in the period rooms.

^{Den Haag, Kunstmuseum entrance hall}

12 PM: LUNCH

Those who want a good lunch or dinner in The Hague can do so at Cottontree on the Lange Voorhout. Cafe de Posthoorn is located across the street from Cottontree, a classic Hague address, for an excellent lunch.

In the summer, Lange Voorhout has many different markets, antiques, books, or a farmers' market. Art in public spaces can regularly be seen on the street and from the Lange Voorhout you can walk straight into the Denneweg, one of the most beautiful shopping streets in the city. The other side of the Lange Voorhout leads to the Noordeinde, a more upscale shopping street.

2 PM: MAURITSHUIS

For 17th-century art, visit the MAURITSHUIS in The Hague, a small but fine museum, full of Rembrandts and paintings by Dutch masters such as Vermeer, Hals, Coorte, and Saenredam. The museum is in the heart of the city and is attached to the government center Binnenhof. The BINNENHOF will be renovated in the coming years, but the museum is open as usual.

5 PM: Indonesian for Dinner?

Head back to Amsterdam for a delicious meal. The Netherlands is famous for its Indonesian cuisine. Two hotels that have excellent Indonesian kitchens include Hotel Jakarta and Hotel Hyatt Regency. We wouldn't recommend hotel restaurants if they weren't this good! In the center, you can also go to the large Kantjil en de Tijger or for innovative Indonesian, have dinner at Restaurant Blauw. If you want to go to a small authentic Indonesian restaurant, you can go to Jun.

Amsterdam naturally has ceramists who like to receive visitors. Feel free to contact the ceramists listed on MoCA/NY's Ceramic World Destinations map. Studio artists to consider visiting include Corien Ridderikhof, who has her studio in the heart of Amsterdam and uses a batik technique to achieve a contemporary Delft blue. Also, schedule a visit with ceramicist Deirdre McLoughlin who sculpts whimsical ceramic forms that delight the eye, and Barbara Nanning, an expert glassmaker, whose works are hypnotically tantalizing.

^{Corien Ridderikhoff}

^{Deirdre McLoughlin}

^{Barbara Nanning}

There are also neighborhoods and squares in Amsterdam that you should avoid as an experienced tourist. The ramparts and the area around Dam Square are more for English bachelor parties, and you should also avoid the two most famous entertainment squares, Rembrandtplein and Leidscheplein.

The flower market on the Singel is mainly for tourist groups, much more inclusive is the Reguliersbreestraat behind it, the country's most famous LGBTQ street with good restaurants and noisy cafes.

To explore more galleries, museums, design stores, and other destinations in the Netherlands, go to the Ceramic World Destination Map!

Ranti Tjan

Ranti Tjan is independent curator and facilitator of art, ceramics and design. He is former director of the European Ceramic Workcentre.

Contact address: Ranti.tjan@gmail.com

Want to see our next ceramic guide to a city? Brooklyn + Queens and Rome are next on our list! Subscribe to our newsletter for an update and send your suggestions to INFO@MOCA-NY.ORG.