Moca-ny
36 Hours
Generic selectors
Exact matches only
Search in title
Search in content
Post Type Selectors
36 Hours
10.25.2024

72 Hours in Tokyo, Japan - Part I

Designer Takashi Takamoto and artist Matthieu Manche offer an immersive guide to Tokyo’s ceramic and clay treasures. Explore galleries, museums, and specialty shops—from ancient collections at the Tokyo National Museum to modern and traditional ceramic artistry in intimate studios and boutiques. Stops at tea and dining spots celebrating clay artistry round out this unmissable journey through Tokyo’s vibrant ceramic culture.
By: Takashi Takamoto and Matthieu Manche
October 25, 2024



To see all the destinations listed in this guide and other ceramic sites in Japan, check out CERAMIC WORLD DESTINATIONS (CWD), MoCA/NY's interactive map listing over 4,000 ceramic destinations!

This is the first installment of our two-part Tokyo guide! 
Subscribe to our newsletter to stay updated when the second part is released!

Tokyo - photo courtesy: Aleksandar Pasaric

Tokyo is one of the most populous cities in the world, and with 41 million residents as of 2024, Greater Tokyo is the most populous metropolitan area on earth. Tokyo is big. You can drive for two hours and still find yourself within the metropolis. You can even take a twelve-hour night boat and still be in Tokyo, adrift in the Pacific! It’s impossible to fully grasp the city in just 36 hours.


While today Tokyo may be renowned for its many towers and skyscrapers, tireless business districts, bustling shopping and fashion streets, its Electric Town, and its powerful anime and kawaii pop culture, the city also has a rich artistic tradition and a vibrant contemporary cultural scene. Tokyo never sleeps!


However, every new visitor is often surprised: despite its endless neighborhoods of houses and small residential buildings, and its countless public parks, shrines, and temples, one can find havens of peace throughout the busy, noisy, and enormous city. With its very hot and humid subtropical summers and frequent typhoons, summer is not the best time to visit. Winter, with its intense blue skies, is cold and dry and can be considered an option. However, the mid-seasons are the most pleasant times to visit.

Pottery holds a special place in Japanese culture and artistic heritage. References to the Six Ancient Kilns—six regions in Japan that have produced pottery from medieval times to the present—are ever-present in people's minds. Ceramic artistry is completely integrated into Japanese culture, particularly in the traditions of the tea ceremony, ikebana culture, sake drinking, and even the way meals are served today. Known as lovers of ceramics, many passionate enthusiasts collect, preserve, and share these cultural treasures. Their dedication often leads to extensive collections of ceramics, art objects, and cultural assets, and sometimes the establishment of private museums. This also contributes to the richness of Japan’s cultural experience, as well as Tokyo's historical, modern, and vibrant contemporary artistic landscape.

One of the remaining old kilns in Shigaraki. This old Noborigama was well maintained and tourists can see it on the pottery trail - photo courtesy: Takuro and Hitomi Shibata

Due to the size of the city and its extensive artistic scene, we have focused our curated guide on just two areas of Tokyo: the old Downtown Tokyo and the new West Tokyo. Between them stands the Imperial Palace.

Unfortunately, almost all private museums in Tokyo and Japan prohibit photography. However, they often publish beautiful catalogs!

WHERE TO STAY

There are numerous accommodation options available at various price points, from high-end hotels to capsule hotels. We have two high-end recommendations: For a refined and elegant Japanese aesthetic experience, we highly recommend The Okura Tokyo, originally opened as Hotel Okura in 1962. The original building was designed by modernist architect Yoshiro Taniguchi. After its destruction, due to popular demand, many elements of the old lobby and guest rooms were either relocated or recreated in the new building, which opened in 2019. This luxury hotel embodies the Ultimate Japanese Style.

If you prefer a relaxing experience like visiting a typical Japanese countryside hot spring spa, in the heart of Tokyo, we suggest the Yuen Bettei Daita hotel. Located just ten minutes from the bustling, hipster Shimokitazawa—an ever-evolving area known for its underground artistic roots—it offers the privilege of escaping the big city for a moment of relaxation in a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) setting, right in the metropolis.

Chef in Tokyo - photo courtesy: Thomas Balabaud

CUISINE


There are countless dining options. In terms of sheer numbers, Tokyo is the restaurant capital of the world! You can eat anytime, anywhere, and with any budget, from cheap and delicious street food to expensive, outstanding three Michelin-star restaurants. Of course, traditional and modern Japanese cuisine is always excellent! The Chinese and Korean offerings are remarkable too. And since many chefs have trained abroad, you’ll also find succulent Italian and French eateries. Less well-known is that Tokyo hosts nearly every kind of cuisine from around the world—even Uyghur and Kurdish food!

TRANSPORTATION


The Tokyo metropolis is immense, but its public transportation system is world-renowned for its efficiency! New visitors are often astonished and intimidated by the extreme complexity of Tokyo's train and subway system. And yes, it is complex! However, public transportation remains the easiest, cheapest, and most effective way to travel within the city. Consider purchasing a prepaid Suica or Pasmo card. You can even use it to pay for short-distance taxi rides. And be sure to wear comfortable sneakers—you’ll be walking a lot regardless!

Tokyo Train - photo courtesy: Ignacio Pereira


DAY 1: DOWNTOWN TOKYO

8 AM: Breakfast in Ueno Park and Visit to the Tokyo National Museum

Tokyo National Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

Have a quick breakfast on the terrace of one of the park’s cafés, then head straight to the museum. The Tokyo National Museum is the oldest and largest museum in Japan, featuring a comprehensive collection of artworks and antiquities from Japan as well as other Asian countries.

First, we trace the history of ceramics in the world from 7,000 years ago, exploring the evolution of decorative beauty and the timeless functionality of its forms. Then, we can discover the earthenware Haniwa (tomb sculptures and terracotta clay figurines), which represent the true origin of Japanese ceramics.

Toyokan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
9:30 AM: TOYOKAN (Asian Gallery) in the Tokyo National Museum


This pavilion displays a collection of wonderful cultural artifacts from around the world. On the second floor, you’ll find a 7,000-year-old Iraqi plate with colorful patterns, which is similar to modern Japanese Yakishime (unglazed high-fired wares), and a 6,000-year-old Egyptian earthenware vessel. These are pieces you should definitely take note of and keep in mind before starting your Tokyo pottery tour.

Toyokan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Toyokan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

10:30 AM: HEISEIKAN (Japanese Archaeology and Special Exhibition) in the Tokyo National Museum

After exploring the origins of vessels, we move to the Heiseikan building on the same site to discover the origins of Japanese pottery. There, you can enjoy a collection of primitive and ancient earthenware, as well as clay figures, dating from 4,000 years ago to around the 6th century.

Heiseikan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Heiseikan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Heiseikan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Heiseikan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Heiseikan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Heiseikan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

11:30 AM: HONKAN (Japanese Gallery) in the Tokyo National Museum

In addition to Chinese, Korean, and other vessels that have influenced the history of Japanese ceramics, visitors can get a glimpse of famous Japanese pottery from the Middle Ages onward. A masterpiece of Jomon-style pottery, the renowned Kaen (flame) pot, excavated in Niigata Prefecture and dated to 5,000 years ago, is housed on the second floor of the Honkan building.

Honkan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Honkan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
12:30 PM: THE GALLERY OF HORYUJI TREASURES ONKAN in the
Tokyo National Museum

Buddhist statues and other artifacts from the Asuka period (late 6th to 7th century) are magnificently displayed in the beautiful contemporary building designed by architect Yoshio Taniguchi.

Acclaimed architect Yoshio Taniguchi gained fame in the U.S. for his renovation of MoMA in New York. His father, Yoshiro Taniguchi, who designed the Hotel Okura, also designed the Toyokan building on the same site. The architecture of father and son stands side by side across the water basin.

After hopping between the museum’s pavilions, you may feel hungry. In that case, head to the restaurant on the first floor of the Toyokan. Operated by Hotel Okura, it serves excellent food.

The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures Onkan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures Onkan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures Onkan - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche




Mizusai, Tomohisa Obana Exhibition View, 2023 - photo courtesy: Mizusai Gallery



2:30 PM: Mizusai Gallery


Take the train to Kuramae Station and head to Mizusai Gallery, a space dedicated to contemporary ceramic artists who create not tableware, but sculptural objects. This venue is quite important in showcasing and promoting the ongoing and emerging creativity in Japanese ceramic art.


On the first floor of the same building, the stationery store KAKIMORI is popular for creating and selling custom-made notebooks. A large selection of writing materials Made in Japan and a wide variety of inks for fountain pens are also available.

3:00 PM: SyuRo


SyuRoprimarily deals in tin boxes and round cans, a traditional industry in downtown Tokyo, as well as a variety of other household goods and tableware. We recommend a copper box or a round brass tea tin as a souvenir.

SyuRo - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

3:15 PM: KABUKI Café

This coffee shop is famous for its homemade chocolates and house-roasted coffee. They do not accept groups of more than two people, and every customer is required to remain quiet. Highly recommended are the hot chocolate, named nadeshiko (fringed pink flower), the dragées, and the owner’s hand-selected coffee. The iced coffee, chilled with huge blocks of ice, and the Irish coffee are also excellent. After enjoying a refreshing, take the train to Asakusabashi Station.

Hakujitsu - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

4 PM: Hakujitsu

This store showcases beautifully aged antiques alongside contemporary artists' vessels. We particularly recommend the selection of artist-designed plates, which are highly trusted by restaurants across Tokyo. The shop has also done an excellent job of making antiques, once seen as inaccessible, more approachable to young, casual buyers.


SHIGERU KITCHEN

By the way, if you're feeling a bit hungry, there’s a chicken tsukune (meatball) sandwich shop located behind Hakujitsu in Asakusabashi. It’s run by the long-established yakitori restaurant Torishige and uses the famous Pelican bread.

Hakujitsu - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Hakujitsu - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
4:30 PM: Trine Gallery, 
Komiyama Bookstore & Gallery
Trine Gallery, Sign - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche


In the Ochanomizu/Kanda area, there’s a small space called Trine Gallery. The gallery’s signboard was created by the artist known as Otani Workshop, who collaborated with Dior in 2023. They occasionally organize solo exhibitions featuring influential Japanese contemporary ceramic artists.


Nearby is the Jimbocho district, Tokyo’s famous hub for secondhand bookstores, where you can also find ukiyo-e woodblock prints. Be sure to visit Komiyama Bookstore, a long-established fashion and art bookstore. Not far from there is the trendy Komiyama Tokyo Gallery, KOMIYAMA TOKYO G, run by the bookstore owner’s young daughter.


If you’re looking for an early dinner, there are many excellent curry rice restaurants in the area. We especially recommend Ethiopia, Bean, and Achaar Curry, known for its generous use of spices. The spiciness levels range from 3x to 50x.

Trine Gallery, Takayuki Watanabe - photo courtesy: Trine Gallery
Komiyama Tokyo, Makoto Ohrui Exhibition, 2024 - photo courtesy: Komiyama

5:30 PM: club d by D&DESIGN

Operated by the D&DEPARTMENT design office, Club D by D&Design offers a curated selection of miscellaneous goods based on the theme of long-life design. Showa-era plastics and containers for commercial use are a must-see. The store is open only on Thursdays and Fridays.

Club D by D&Design - photo courtesy: club d by D&Design
Minä Perhonen Elävä I, Elävä II and Puukuu - photo courtesy: Norio Kidera
Elava - photo courtesy: Norio Kidera

5:45 PM: Minä Perhonen Elävä I, Elävä II and Puukuu

In the neighborhood, there are three boutiques by Akira Minagawa, the acclaimed fashion designer behind the Japanese brand Minä Perhonen, as well as a food and tableware store, and a café. Visitors can fully immerse themselves in Minä's world, which includes fashion, furniture design, and, of course, ceramics! In the café, meals and desserts are served on vessels from the Tambourine series.

7 PM: Dinner at Torishige

It’s time for a real dinner! We can't help but recommend this long-established yakitori restaurant—it’s impossible to go wrong here, as everything is delicious!


DAY 2: FROM DOWNTOWN TO MIDTOWN TOKYO


10 AM: MITSUI MEMORIAL MUSEUM

Mitsui Memorial Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

In the Nihonbashi area, the Mitsui Memorial Museum houses a collection of unique Japanese tea ceremony ceramics, including a pitch-black Raku tea bowl and a beautifully distorted Shino tea bowl.

One can experience the essence of Wabi-Sabi inside a replica of the tea ceremony room of Oda Urakusai, the younger brother of the shogun Oda Nobunaga and a prominent figure of Momoyama culture (late 16th to 17th century).

Mitsui Memorial Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Mitsui Memorial Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche




Mitsukoshi - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
11 AM: NIHONBASHI MITSUKOSHI


Mitsui Echigo-ya, the department store that created the first price tag now used worldwide and later renamed Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi, celebrated its 350th anniversary in 2023.


The tableware and kitchenware section on the 5th floor, along with the perfectly curated ceramic galleries on the 6th floor, are worth visiting casually. The rooftop garden, with its refreshing pond and well-maintained grass field, features a store selling expensive bonsai trees. There are also tables where you can relax. We recommend having lunch or taking a break by the pond with a variety of bento (prepared food boxes) that you can pick up from the food floor in the basement.

At the entrance hall, you’ll find an 11-meter-high wooden statue of a celestial maiden by Gengen Sato (1888–1963), which took 10 years to complete and has been on display since 1960. Inside the marble to the right of the pedestal is an ammonite fossil.

Mitsukoshi - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Mitsukoshi - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche






11:30 AM: KAMI YA CO. LTD.


Kami Ya Co. LTDis a small gallery featuring and selling many vessels by master Shiro Tsujimura. Visits are by appointment only!

Kami Ya Co. LTD - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche







Haibara - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

12 PM: Haibara

A beautiful woodblock-printed Washi paper store, established in 1806. Here, you can find beautiful Washi paper stored in drawers, and you can even purchase a single sheet. Why not choose a unique wrapping paper for a special souvenir for your loved ones? We also recommend the Boshu Fan, which is covered with Washi paper.

Haibara - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Haibara - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

12:30: TAKASHIMAYA S. C. ART GALLERY X

Art exhibitions and event spaces, and even museums, have long been a tradition in Japanese department stores. Typically located on the top floors or near the luxury goods section, almost all department stores in Japan have ceramic galleries. The Art Gallery X inside Takashimaya Nihonbashi is one of the most respected for its programming.

Takashimaya Art Gallery, Shunichi Yabe Exhibition View - photo courtesy: Takashimaya

Takashimaya Art Gallery, Shunichi Yabe Exhibition View - photo courtesy: Takashimaya
Takashimaya Art Gallery, Shunichi Yabe Exhibition View - photo courtesy: Takashimaya






1 PM: Pragmata


Founded by a Greek national and former buyer at Comme des Garçons Dover Street, this gallery collects and sells contemporary ceramic works, all carefully curated to reflect the owner's particular taste. In addition to the gallery on the third floor, many pieces are stored in the warehouse space on the fourth floor.

Pragmata - photo courtesy: Pragmata
Pragmata - photo courtesy: Pragmata
Pragmata - photo courtesy: Pragmata




2 PM: Idemitsu Museum of Arts
Idemitsu Museum of Arts - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

In the Marunouchi area, the Idemitsu Museum of Arts houses a gorgeous collection of overglaze enamel-painted ceramics and traditional Japanese paintings. The final room of the exhibition, known as the pottery shards room, is a must-see for pottery connoisseurs. Here, fragments of ceramics from around the world can be viewed up close, individually displayed in drawers.

Next to the pottery shards room, visitors can relax in the lounge with complimentary cold green tea while enjoying a view of the Imperial Palace. Please note, the museum is scheduled to close temporarily for renovations at the end of 2024.

On the ground floor of the same building is the contemporary art space CADAN. Organized by Tokyo’s contemporary and emerging art galleries on a rotating basis, it always offers a fresh and surprising selection of art pieces.

Cadan Gallery Space - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Cadan Gallery Space - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

Seikado Bunko Art Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Seikado Bunko Art Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Seikado Bunko Art Museum - photo courtesy: Takashi Takamoto


2:45 PM: Seikado Bunko Art Museum

The Seikado Bunko Art Museum is not exactly a museum but a gallery displaying the collection of the Iwasaki family, founders of one of Japan's largest business conglomerates, Mitsubishi. The family owns a vast collection and research facility in Setagaya, west of Tokyo, founded in the 19th century and opened to the public in 1972. However, they have since relocated the gallery to the heart of Tokyo, where the Mitsubishi group owns numerous properties, to better showcase their collection to the public.


The gallery showcases one of Japan’s (and arguably the world's) three national treasures: a Yohen Tenmoku tea bowl (Chinese Jian ware). With its striking spots, the Yohen Tenmoku is known as one of the world's most precious and mysterious tea bowls. In contrast to the Kamahen Tenmoku at the Museum of Oriental Ceramics, Osaka, which has uniform spots all over the body, this tea bowl, also known as the Inaba Tenmoku, is distinguished by its large, boldly dancing spots. The collection also includes many other tea ceremony utensils.


During the U.S. occupation after the Pacific War, the Meiji Seimei Kan building, which houses the gallery, was used as the headquarters of the U.S. Far East Air Forces (GHQ).


On the ground floor of the building, you'll find a café and a Comme des Garçons store. The café, named Rose Bakery, is attached to the shop. A variety of PLAY Comme des Garçons items and perfumes, popular as souvenirs, are also available.

3:30 PM: HAKU

Haku Gallery is located behind the gift shop of Wakuden, a traditional Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant in Kyoto. Many of Shiro Tsujimura's ceramics are exhibited and available for purchase. You can also enjoy matcha green tea and sweets in the store.

Haku - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Haku - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Haku - photo courtesy: Takashi Takamoto
3:45 PM: Tokyo International Forum


Floating within a magnificent glass atrium, The Tokyo International Forum looks like the underside of a white ship. Passages and bridges span the space, allowing you to explore it from above while looking down into the hall. At night, the floor emits a white light. The structure was designed by Rafael Viñoly in 1997.

Tokyo International Forum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Tokyo International Forum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche




Le Forum, Ginza Maison Hermès - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
4 PM: Le Forum, Ginza Maison Hermès

Nearby, just before entering the historic Ginza shopping streets and passing under the Japan Railways and bullet train bridge, stands the striking Hermès building. Designed by Renzo Piano in 2001 and constructed with specially made glass blocks, the slender building resembles a giant lantern at night. On the 8th floor of this French luxury boutique is a spacious, light-filled glass gallery that hosts delightful art exhibitions, often connected to Japanese and French contemporary art scenes.

Le Forum, Ginza Maison Hermès - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Le Forum, Ginza Maison Hermès - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche




Musee Tomo - photo courtesy: Musee Tomo


5 PM: Tomo Museum

Lost in a forest among new skyscrapers is the peaceful Tomo Museum. This small and charming museum, established in 2003 by Tomo Kikuchi, houses her carefully curated collection of ceramics. Tomo Kikuchi, the daughter of a prominent energy industry leader, began collecting both old and contemporary ceramics in the 1950s. She later owned the contemporary ceramic gallery Kandori. Today, the museum continues to showcase exhibitions dedicated to post-war and contemporary ceramics. In 2024, it hosted a thematic exhibition focused on the avant-garde ceramicist group Sodeisha, co-produced with the National Museum of Modern Art in Kyoto.

Musee Tomo - photo courtesy: Musee Tomo
Azabudai Hills - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
6 PM: Azabudai Hills


The Mori Building Company, known for Mori Tower, opened its sister complex, Azabudai Hills, in 2023. Designed by the architectural firm Pelli Clarke Pelli Architects, its three skyscrapers now include the tallest building in Japan. Accompanying the skyscrapers is a group of smaller buildings designed as a modern urban village, according to Mori. It notably hosts the globally popular team Lab Borderless project and the Japan location of Pace Gallery. There are also plenty of dining options within the village!

Azabudai Hills - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Azabudai Hills - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche


DAY 3: WEST TOKYO





Yoyogi Park - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
8 AM: PATH (café/restaurant)

In the Tomigaya area, near Yoyogi Park, this delightfully laid back, chic, and cool atmosphere bistro offers breakfast, brunch, and pastries in a laid-back, chic, and cool atmosphere from 8 AM to 2 PM. Unfortunately, due to its popularity, there may be a small queue before the 8 AM opening. In the evening, they serve beautifully plated Italian cuisine, accompanied by natural wines or Kyoto-made craft beer.

Gotoh Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Gotoh Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

Gotoh Museum

Futagotamagawa/Kaminoge Area (Optional, as it is a bit farther away)


Gotoh Museum was founded by the creator of Tokyu Corporation, a Tokyo-based private railway company and real estate developer. The museum holds many impressive tea ceremony implements worth seeing, including the Habukuro, an Iga Ware water jar masterpiece promoted by Furuta Oribe and designated as an Important Cultural Property.


The garden, which stretches from the museum down the mountainside, is a delightful place to stroll, featuring impressive lanterns, Buddhist statues, and several teahouses.

Gotoh Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Gotoh Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

Gotoh Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Gotoh Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

Mingei Kan Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

10 AM: Mingei Kan (Japan Folk Crafts Museum)


Komaba Area: The Mingei Kan Museum displays Korean white porcelains collected by Soetsu Yanagi, founder of the museum and leader of the Mingei movement. The collection also includes beautiful slip wares by Bernard Leach, numerous ceramics by Hamada Shoji and Kawai Kanjiro, prints by Munakata Shiko, and craftworks from the Tohoku region as well as from the Ainu and Ryukyu indigenous peoples. Twice a month, Soetsu Yanagi's private home, located at the opposite side of the museum, is open to the public. In the gift store, you can purchase cutlery and other items designed by his son, industrial designer Sori Yanagi.

Mingei Kan Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
11 AM: Beniya


Close to Mingei Kan is the long-established and respected Beniya store. Opened in 1962, the store relocated to this area in 2017.  Mainly dedicated to the Mingei movement, it sells a variety of handicrafts and pottery and occasionally hosts special events and pop-ups, such as today's showcase of Iranian Gabbeh rugs.

Beniya - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche

Beniya - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Beniya - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche


SHOPS NEAR YOYOGI UEHARA STATION

Aelu - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Aelu 

Near Yoyogi Uehara Station, Aelu features a large selection of easy-to-use, everyday tableware by contemporary ceramic artists.

Aelu - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche




LEAFMANIA


Leafmania is a pioneering gallery showcasing Chinese tea ware by contemporary ceramic artists. There is also a tea room on the second floor, which requires reservations. The second location, near Ueno, also sells Chinese teas.

Leafmania - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Leafmania - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche








Iegnim


A newcomer to the area, Iegnim carefully curated shop specializes in craftwork and pottery designed for "coffee and plants."

Iegnim - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Iegnim - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Iegnim - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
12 PM: Blum Gallery
Blum Gallery, Shinkichi Tajiri exhibition view, 2017 - photo courtesy: Blum Gallery

From the quiet Yoyogi Uehara neighborhood to the bustling streets of Harajuku, you can enjoy a nice and relaxing walk through the greenery of Yoyogi Park, perhaps even visiting the majestic Shinto Meiji Jingu shrine nearby.

Just a few meters away from the vibrant and world-famous Takeshita Street, which has recently attracted many tourists thanks to the rise of Kawaii culture, is the Tokyo flagship of Blum Gallery. Originally opened as Blum and Poe in Santa Monica in 1994, the Tokyo branch was established in 2014. From its early years, the gallery has had a strong commitment to Japan's post-war and contemporary art scene. 

It has produced large-scale exhibitions focusing on the Mono-ha school and the Superflat movement, among other projects. The gallery now also represents and showcases emerging and promising ceramic artists such as Kazumori Hamana, Yuji Ueda, and Akane Saijo.

Blum Gallery, Shinkichi Tajiri exhibition view, 2017 - photo courtesy: Blum Gallery
Blum Gallery, Shinkichi Tajiri exhibition view, 2017 - photo courtesy: Blum Gallery


1 PM: Tonari No Totoya Gallery


Takashi Murakami is a multifaceted figure: a world-renowned visual artist, entrepreneur, entertainer, owner of the Kaikai Kiki gallery, and a huge art collector. Of particular interest is his collection of ceramic vessels. Recently, in the Nakano Broadway shopping mall, a well-known hub of Otaku culture, Murakami opened a second gallery space dedicated exclusively to ceramics called Tonari No Totoya (My Neighbor Totoya).

Tonari No Totoya - Sae Ishii Exhibition view, 2024 - photo courtesy: Tonari No Totoya
Tonari No Totoya - Sae Ishii Exhibition view, 2024 - photo courtesy: Tonari No Totoya
Tonari No Totoya - Sae Ishii Exhibition view, 2024 - photo courtesy: Tonari No Totoya


1:30 PM: Kane Tanaka

Near Omote-Sando Station, you’ll find a haven of peace: Kane Tanaka café and restaurant designed by acclaimed contemporary artist Hiroshi Sugimoto, reflecting a strong and elegant Japanese spirit. This open-minded space serves tea in a very sophisticated way, along with Japanese sweets, traditional light meals, and rare sake. For a full-course Japanese dinner, reservations are required.

Nezu Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
​​2 PM: Nezu Museum


Nezu Museum, designed by Kengo Kuma, was founded by the creator of Tobu Electric Railway, a private railway company in Tokyo. Visitors can enjoy the well-maintained Japanese garden and a café with a great view and an extensive menu.


It has a large and impressive collection of oriental ceramics and folding screens, many of which are national treasures and well worth seeing. The bronze collection is equally magnificent. Don’t forget to take a walk through the garden, where you can enjoy the gentle slope, a rustic teahouse, and a pond with a floating boat.


The catalogs edited by the museum are excellent. Reservations are required for admission.

Nezu Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Nezu Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Nezu Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Nezu Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Toukyo Shop - photo courtesy: Toukyo
3:30 PM: Toukyo

Nishi Azabu Area: Established in 1987 by Ichiro Hirose, Toukyo gallery is one of the leading galleries dealing in contemporary Japanese ceramic artists. The furniture in the shop was designed by acclaimed Japanese-American woodworker, architect, and furniture maker George Nakashima. A solo exhibition is held weekly, and the online site features nearly all the works from these exhibitions, creating an encyclopedic archive of artists.

Toukyo - photo courtesy: Toukyo
Toukyo - photo courtesy: Toukyo
4 PM: Shibuya Kuroda Toen

Only three minutes away from the bustling Shibuya Crossing stands the gallery Kuroda Toen, a highly respected gallery selling masterpieces by modern ceramic artists such as Kitaoji Rosanjin and Kawai Kanjiro, two of the best-known Japanese ceramists of the twentieth century. The gallery’s president, Kusaomi Kuroda, is also an influential scholar of Japanese pottery, with many published books. The gallery regularly prints and distributes a well-documented, beautifully illustrated brochure.

Shibuya Kuroda Toen - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Shibuya Kuroda Toen - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
Shibuya Kuroda Toen - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
4:30 PM: Conran Shop Daikanyama

The Conran shop, opened in 2023, is a localized store mainly featuring furniture and merchandise from Japan and Asia. It is led by Shinichiro Nakahara, the CEO of The Conran Shop Japan since 2022 and the visionary founder of Landscape Products. In the basement, there’s a tea bar called Chokeikyo, directed by Shinya Sakurai of Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience. Next to the tea bar, a gallery space displays Japanese and Asian crafts, ceramics, and antiques.

The Conran Shop, Elements of China Exhibition, August 2024 - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
The Conran Shop, Elements of China Exhibition, August 2024 - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
The Conran Shop, Elements of China Exhibition, August 2024 - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche




5 PM: SML

SML is a shop that showcases goods from kilns and artists involved with the folk arts and crafts (Mingei) movement. They sell a wide range of items, including slipware, Kanna-patterned (hand-carved) vessels, hand-blown glass cups, and iron or wooden pieces. We highly recommend the simple, all-white tableware and cookware by Tetsuya Otani.

SML - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
SML - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
SML - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
7 PM: Arihu Store (wine bar/restaurant)


In the Tomigaya area, this small, buzzy wine bar sits on a corner of a surprisingly quiet street, just a 10-minute walk from Shibuya Crossing. They serve exclusively selected natural wines, mainly from France, with a few from Japan. The simple French bistro-style food is excellent, with the sausages and rillettes—made daily by the proprietor and his sister—gaining particular fame. It’s a tiny venue, so be prepared to queue!


Roppongi Museums

Given the abundance of places to visit in just three days, here are two alternative museums to check out if you have the time!

Design Sight - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche
21_21 Design Sight

World acclaimed fashion designer Issey Miyake founded this museum in 2007 with the help of his close friend, the legendary architect Tadao Ando, who designed the building. Since Miyake’s passing, the museum remains active, continuing to present exhibitions largely curated by his team. It focuses on thematic exhibitions that explore both past and future, sustainable fashion, long-life design, technology in daily life, everyday rules, experimental music and sound—the vibrant Tokyo creative scene across fashion, graphic design, and more. This museum is truly worth a visit.

Mori Art Museum


On the 54th floor of the Mori Tower, visitors can enjoy one of Tokyo's most beautiful cityscapes and the company-owned, private Mori Art Museum. This huge space hosts some of Tokyo’s most popular contemporary art exhibitions. Recently, in 2024, it featured a solo exhibition by Chicago-based American artist Theaster Gates. Half of the show focused on his long-standing commitment to Japanese clay culture and his personal relationship with Tokoname, one of Japan's oldest industrial ceramic production areas, and its community.

Mori Art Museum - photo courtesy: Matthieu Manche



Our Guide to Japan continues! Stay tuned for the upcoming second installment of our Tokyo guide, highlighting areas perfect for day trips outside the city if you have extra time to explore!





CONTRIBUTORS

TAKASHI TAKAMOTO


In December 2010, while working for a fashion brand, Takashi Takamoto began collecting vessels, starting with two teacups by Teppei Ono. He attended the exhibition, organized by Takashi Murakami’s gallery, through a connection with a designer. Over the years, Takamoto has planned and managed special events and cafes for luxury and fashion brands and designed and sold many popular bags.

Parallel to his fashion career, he has collected tableware, tea bowls, teacups, vases, and objects by artists such as Shigeyoshi Morioka, Yuriko Morioka, Shingo Arakawa, Hono Kim, Ryohei Yamamoto, Rinpei Watanabe, Shiro Shimizu, Yoji Yamada, Naotsugu Yoshida, Kazumi Tsuji, and others. Currently, he creates works in which his ceramic collections are traced, patterned, and sewn into bags, marking the beginning of his new career as an artist. website

MATTHIEU MANCHE

Matthieu Manche is a visual artist born in 1969 in Grenoble, France. Arriving in 1997, he spent more than a decade and a half in Japan. After a period in Europe, including Brussels, he is now based in Tokyo. Manche’s artwork spans various media: installations, sculpture, clothing, photography, video and performance, drawing, wall drawing, and print. And now, ceramics is his primary medium. 

His work explores themes of the body and its functions/dysfunctions, limitations, classification, categorization, gender, borders, and the uncanny. He has participated in numerous solo and group exhibitions in Japan, France, the U.S., and globally. Last year, Manche completed a year-long residency at Shigaraki Ceramic Cultural Park in Shigaraki, Japan, and is now seeking a location to build a kiln of his own design. website

Want to see our next ceramic guide to a city? Tokyo, Japan - Part II and Dublin, Ireland are coming next! You too can feature ceramic destinations in your city. To share a guide,  event, exhibition news, or research, visit our CONNECT PAGE for more information!

Don't forget to subscribe to our newsletter for updates on all things ceramics!


Recent Explorations

1 2 3 10

Thanks to our sponsors:

MUSEUM OF CERAMIC ART
NEW YORK
info@moca-ny.org
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 43 Armonk, NY 10504
Copyright ©
2024
Museum of Ceramic Art - New York.
All rights reserved.